In the morning we drove to Amandola to see Alessia and Gildo at A&G. They were very professional and took us through the properties on their database so we could choose the ones that most interested us. Then it was off on a breakneck tour of the area. We had been warned about Gildo and his motorbike but it was still a great struggle for the little Lancia to keep up with him as he zipped through the traffic. when we arrived at the first house I pulled together my Italian to say "non è una Ferrari, è una piccola macchina" (it's not a Ferrari, it's a little car.)
The first house was bit of a dump but the second was the best we had seen since Monte San Martino the previous morning. It was already partly restored and had great views. Somehow though it wasn't quite right - I think we really wanted to be in the hills and this was near Petritoli, only some 10 miles inland.
We had now seen all we were going to see and it looked like the Monte San Martino house was definitely favourite so we rang Lokation and arranged to meet them later in the afternoon to see it again. But before then we would need lunch. We tried Ortezzano first as it was only a few miles away and we had had a very nice dinner there but Tuesday was obviously when all the restaurants there closed so we went right down to the coast at Pedaso. It was getting late now and we were really getting hungry but we didn't see anywhere that looked attractive. Eventually we saw a little cafe in a modern building in a side street. Beggars can't be choosers so we decided to give it a go. It was rammed! We asked, in pidgin Italian, if there was still food available were told yes but we'd not have much choice. Just bring it on we said. And that was definitely the right thing to say. It was fantastic with the highlight being a wonderful seafood pasta served, completely without pretension, in an aluminium pan. Sadly, we didn't make a note of exactly where it was but, next time we are in Pedaso, we'll definitely hunt it out.
It was with a considerable degree of trepidation that we returned to Monte San Martino and drove down the long lane that leads to it past workers tending to the groves of fruit trees that surround the house. Waiting for us when we got there was the owner accompanied by an elderly retriever.
We loved the house first time round but would it still look as good when we saw it again? The answer was a clear yes. It was a classic Italian farmhouse, surrounded by trees with great views and the river passing by.
Delio Mancini is nearly 80 but very spry and alert; and obviously still ready to spend time in his fields. My Italian was still very limited but, after we had seen the house, he showed me round the land and we managed to chat about the land (he referred to it as "tuo" your land as though it were already mine), dogs (I explained that we have a labrador at home), neighbours ("gente brave" - good people) and just generally got to know each other. I had a really good feeling about him just as I had about the house. We had some questions about the outbuildings and whether they could be used so Delio just phoned up Lorenzo Anselmi, the local geometra and within 5 minutes he had turned up to give us his professional advice. He also looked at the hazelnut trees near the house and said we should have truffles there.
Apart from the price, the only problem was the road. Although only very lightly used (we hadn't yet seen a car pass by on either visit) it was a public road and not only did it run right by the front door, it also separated the house from its outbuildings. But maybe something could be done about it.
Chris and I went to the car for a chat and we wanted the house but we really didn't think we could go to the asking price.
Before we could decide what to offer, the agent came up to the car and told us that Sr Mancini would accept a figure significantly below the asking price and would also arrange for the road to be diverted around the edge of our land at his expense. That was it, job done. We just nodded our heads and grinned and I stepped out of the car and shook hands with Delio (he's the one on the left by the way). We were going to be the owners of an Italian country house! Gulp!!!!
We also go up into the town of Monte San Martino and have a wander around. It is so beautiful with magnificent views. The only thing missing is a visit to the church which is kept locked outside service times. We'd like to have seen the wonderful medieval paintings, of which the best are by the Crivelli brothers, but that will have to wait till we are there on a Sunday and can go to mass.
After that, it's a leisurely drive back in the trusty, but extremely mucky, little Lancia. The autostrada that runs from the Adriatic to Rome (the A24) is a sensational drive with great, sweeping viaducts and long tunnels (one over 10km and containing an underground nuclear physics lab) as it cuts through the the Gran Sasso mountains and under the highest peak in the Appenines, the Corno Grande.
We are still far too early to check in so decide to head (through heavy, late afternoon traffic) to Castel Gandolfo, a suburb of Rome where the Pope has his summer residence. We drive through the town till we find a cafe perched high above the lake and sit on the terrace enjoying ice creams. I look further up and realise that, just a little above us, is something I've seen before: the Papal residence. Not a bad place for a bit of a sit down (and the ice cream is great too).
